Architectural delights of Old Goa

It sounds like a cliche, but Old Goa is really a gem for an architecture lover – it’s a place with a large concentration of art objects and lots of things to see, to touch and to experience. I kept my expectations high when planning my Old Goa visit, and teh city didn’t disappoint. The impact was very strong.

How to get to Old Goa?

Old Goa is only 14 km from Panjim, so it hardly takes half an hour to get there on a local bus. The journey was very scenic, and the changing views kept me glued to the window all the way from Panjim – lush greenery, quaint houses, ferryboats and sparkling water surface make a very picturesque combination.

A Historical Note

Old Goa used to be a capital of Portuguese State of India, and all the headquarters of the Portuguese government were situated in this city of 200,000 people from the 16th to 18th century. During its thrive Old Goa was often described as “the Rome of the East”, but in the 18th century it was abandoned due to severe outbreaks of plague. The remnants of Old Goa serve as bright examples of colonial Baroque architecture and are a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Distinctive features of Baroque architecture

Characteristics of Baroque architecture vary from country to country, but the most distinguishing features  include:

~ a large oval-shaped nave;

~ sophisticated play of light and shadows;

~ predominance of complex forms and curved lines;

~ extensive use of color and decorative elements (gilded wooden figures, marble finishing, and stucco);

~ alternation of concave and convex lines and planes;

~ expansive ceiling frescoes and subtle blend of painting and architectural elements in  order to create an optical illusion of three-dimensional objects;

~ strong emphasis on a facade’s central projection.

Lots of these features can be observed in the churches of Old Goa.There are several Baroque structures in other parts of India as well  – St. Francis Church in Kochi and St. Paul’s Church in Diu just to name a couple.

The brightest examples of European Baroque architecture include the church of Sant’Ivo alla Sapienza and Basilica di Superga in Italy, Cathedral of Santiago de Compostela and Royal Palace of La Granja in Spain, Mafra National Palace in Portugal, Versailles and Chateau de Maisons in France, Castle Howard in England, St. Charles’s Church in Austria, Saints Peter and Paul Church in Poland, Saint Andrew’s Church and St. Michael’s Golden-Domed Monastery in Ukraine, Winter Palace in Russia and so on.

Due to colonization, the Baroque architectural style is vastly represented in the counties of Latin America (Catedral Metropolitana in Mexico, monastery of San Francisco in  Peru etc.)

Churches and Cathedrals of Old Goa

Basilica of Bom Jesus

The iconic structure of OLd Goa and its most recognized landmark is The Basilica of Bom Jesus. Built in  the beginning of the 17th century, this world heritage monument contains the the body of St. Francis Xavier. I found the basilica’s exterior much more spectacular than the hall with its gilded altar, marble floor and traditional elements of Christian places of worship, but that’s only a matter of personal preference.

The Basilica of Bom Jesus Old Goa

The Basilica of Bom Jesus

Basilica of Bom Jesus Old Goa

The Basilica of Bom Jesus (inside)

Needless the say, the place was very touristy and crowded, but that didn’t influence my perception. The grandeur of the place makes up for all the distractions and things of minor importance.

There was also a lovely courtyard  and a nativity scene.

The Basilica of Bom Jesus Old Goa courtyard

The Basilica of Bom Jesus, courtyard

The nativity scene

The nativity scene

Church of St. Francis of Assisi

The Church of St. Francis of Assisi is a massive structure built in the second half of the 17th century. Scenes from the life of St Francis of Assisi are depicted on the panels of the church.

St. Francis of Assisi church Old Goa

St. Francis of Assisi church

The arch with floral design near the entrance was a rather unexpected architectural element and I loved it – it completely changes the perspective as one enters the church.

St. Francis of Assisi church Old Goa

The arch

The doors of Goan churches were a huge source of an aesthetic pleasure for me – massive, ornamental, heavy and reliable, each of them had thousands stories to tell. The emotional impact was so strong that I felt like my whole body was electrified when I touched these doors, as if they really could take me back to a bygone era.

St. Francis of Assisi church Old Goa

That door…

Chapel of St. Catherine

The Chapel of St. Catherine was built in 1510  by Afonso de Albuquerque, the Portuguese governor. He dedicated the structure to Saint Catherine since he reconquered Goa from Adhil Shah on her feast day. The chapel was peaceful and quiet, and I took my time walking around and feeling the power of the ancient stone.

Chapel Of St. Catherine Old Goa

Chapel Of St. Catherine

Chapel de St Catherine Old Goa Chapel de St Catherine Old GoaOther churches of Old Goa 

Other churches of Old Goa include:

Se Cathedral

Church of Saint Cajetao

Saint Anne’s Church

Royal Chapel of St. Anthony

Church of Saint John of God

The Archaeological Museum, Old Goa

The exhibits of the Archeological museums are displayed in 8 galleries housed in the convent of the The Church of St. Francis of Assisi. The entrance fee is only 10 Rs for both the Indian and foreign visitors, but the photography in the museum is strictly prohibited. It was a pity since there were lots of interesting antiquities I would gladly share with my readers – wooden and ivory sculptures, fragments of pillars, stonework, paintings, Arabic calligraphy, Portuguese weaponry and what not. I only took a couple of pictures outside the museum:

Mill stones of gun powder factory Old Goa

Mill stones of gun powder factory

Fragments of stonework Old Goa

Fragments of stonework

Although it’s a touristic place, it’s always possible to find a quiet corner in Old Goa and take a break.

Old GoaIt’s rather important for an introverted traveler like me who gets easily overwhelmed with impressions 🙂

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Have you visited Old Goa? Would you like to?

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11 thoughts on “Architectural delights of Old Goa

  1. Nice pictures.
    All this reminded me of my first visit to Goa somewhere in the mid sixties where we could see the body of St Francis, and my last trip where we did make a visit to Fort Aguada (Mario Miranda’s fav)

  2. Hi Antonina! I’ve been to Goa, but only at Panjim, because of volunteering work. Though I covered some famous beaches around, but haven’t covered this part (arch.). Thanks for sharing the info.

  3. Pingback: My mom's India 2 - indiapalette.com

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